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For sensualists: Vosne-Romanée, Burgundy


Domaine Jean Tardy et Fils “Les Chaumes” 2000,
Vosne-Romanée premier cru, rouge (Burgundy, France) £40

“But when from a long-distant past nothing subsists, after the people are dead, after the things are broken and scattered, taste and smell alone, more fragile but more enduring, more unsubstantial, more persistent, more faithful, remain poised a long time, like souls, remembering, waiting, hoping, amid the ruins of all the rest: and bear unflinchingly, in the tiny and almost impalpable drop of their essence, the vast structure of recollection.” – Marcel Proust, from Remembrance of Things Past

All pleasures I have known: it all came back in the first taste of this excellent wine – whenever there has been a good meal with good friends, excellent conversation and a beautiful bottle of Burgundy. It all came back: friends I see, friends I no longer have the chance to see and friends who are no longer.

After the first shock of recognition, what I admired next was its “refreshing” quality, not heavy, my spirit is lightened for a while afterwards.

This wine is still very young at 8 years old, with mostly fruit – yet it developed in the glass before my mouth so that every taste was different, evolved, multi-faceted.

If you are uptight, yes, you could decant. But just enjoy it. Burgundy is not a commodity, it’s made for absolute delight and pleasure. I was lucky enough to enjoy this wine with someone who had navigated the difficult Bourgogne labels and vineyards; vineyards that change hands and proprietors from decade to decade, wife to wife.

Link: more wines from the commune of Vosne-Romanée