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Diary of a Riesling Lover

Riesling Redux: April 3 – July 5, 2010

Riesling is something to turn to when the world gets too busy and crazy.

Riesling, especially German Riesling, is not easy, outside of the common push and shove of the marketplace, a tonic to the mad prices of Bordeaux En Primeur this year, which has been the background machine-hum to the following notes.

Over the past two months there has been some tragedy as well as great moments for me. In fact, Riesling has been my vino da meditazione. A moment to reflect. After the blandness of the day, it’s good to enjoy difficult things. Each Riesling here was like capturing raindrops.

 

Apr 03, 2010

Two favourite things: the mineral/lime character of Eden Valley Riesling and South-East Asian food. Thai fish dumplings with 2006 Henschke Julius Riesling.

Apr 16, 2010

Good lunch: sausage roll and 2006 Donnhoff Schlosbockelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Spatlese and a glass of NV Pol Roger to finish.

May 08, 2010

On leaving a customer’s cellar full of Bordeaux First Growths, he handed me a Magnum 2007 Reichstrat Von Buhl Pechstein Forst Riesling Trocken. He said, “you’ll probably enjoy this more than me”. Yes, you are probably right.

BredaVin: My notes dec09 on Von Buhl F. Pechstein 2007 Nose: Petrol & minerals. Taste: apricot peach salty. Great length. Beauty!


May 16, 2010

Feel jaded, need something serious after work to engage brain: 2002 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling.

Now playing: Spiegel im Spiegel by Arvo Part. The sound of intensely pure minerality in Riesling.


May 19, 2010

Always loved Firesteed Oregon Pinot Noir, so happy to taste their Riesling today. Hope won’t have to wait too long before available in UK (From London International Wine Fair).


May 23, 2010

Sad news in hot weather: turn to 2004 Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt Josephshofer Riesling Kabinett green gold cardomon residual sugar is uplifting 8%alc

Mosel Kabinett brilliant. Stupid bridge.


June 3, 2010

Mt Edward Drumlin Central Otago Riesling: residual sugar ends dry with acidity like sorbet in summer. Refreshing! Tempted to stay and drink in sunshine.

Mt Edward Winemaker: “We persevere with Riesling despite it being difficult.” Good man. More Central Otago Riesling, please…

Now playing: La Forza del Destino, Maria Callas. Good with Riesling.


June 10, 2010

Particularly liked aged aroma of 2005 Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Spatlese Domdechant Werner, from Hochheim at 8% more structure: Hessen.

Historic winery in Rheingau dates back to 1136: 2008 Kloster Eberbach Riesling Trocken more verdant, green lime flavours float on palate. Reminiscent of an Australian dry Riesling.


June 12, 2010

Rearranging Germany.

OK Trockens! Rheingau: peach & foursquare; Mosel: lime &floating; Hessen: firmly built, better with age. In my humble opinion.


June 29, 2010

It’s with a happy sadness to open last bottle of 2002 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese. Pineapple, grapefruit, almond, mojito-like “salty” refreshing &… cassis? Yes, cassis. 8% alc

Must remember this: Blackcurrant quite common flavour descriptor in Mosel, especially Brauneberger Juffers. Redcurrants: Pfalz


July 01, 2010

Stuck in dusty wine cellar most of day. Time to open 08 Domdechant Werner Hochheimer Riesling Trocken. Name a mouthful, very delicate citrus. Expressive and expansive. This is from Hessen and not as stony as Kloster Eberback Rheingau.


July 5, 2010

2001 Van Volxem Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp Riesling.An ultra Kabinett? NO! Refuses to be classified. OK OK Be difficult! Only makes me like you more…

Like constant flashing of different images, desperately want to slow the slide show down. Almond oil, lavender, ginger, caramel. One of the greatest Rieslings I’ve ever had.


Image: The Bitter Tears of Petra Von Kant (1972) Rainer Werner Fassbinder


 

6 Comments

  1. Alex Down says

    This diary is brilliant – woul dbe great to see a 2011 version ,-)

    • Juel Mahoney says

      Thank you! Whenever there is too much Bordeaux there is always Riesling…. especially good this time of year (En Primeur).

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  4. Just found this Juel – what a fantastic diary….. I’ve been on a bit of a Riesling trip myself, but the quantity and quality out here in Malaysia is far harder to come by.

    SUCH a great grape.

    Jack

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