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Piedmont Report: Langhe Nebbiolo & Nebbiolo d’Alba



I had always learned Nebbiolo derived from the word, “Nebbia”, meaning “fog”, alluding to the fog that sets in on the hills in Piemonte during harvest. But no, I stand humbly corrected. The true meaning I am told, by every winemaker I met while I was there, is that Nebbiolo was named after the Piemontese word “Nebieu” meaning Noble.

This may be the case, but these great wines made from Nebbiolo grape in Piemonte seem to be shrouded in fog – the fog of Italian classification laws. “We are very complicated in Piemonte,” said Pietro Ratti at the Symposium after the Nebbiolo Nobile tasting, almost as an apology.

Does it have to be this way?

Some may know Barolo and Barbaresco, some may even know they are made from Nebbiolo, but there are also other wines: Nebbiolo d’Alba, Nebbiolo from Roero and Nebbiolo Langhe. They are made from the same grape but are different classifications of Nebbiolo, some that cross over the same territories, even the same vineyards, as Barolo and Barbaresco (see map above).  They share the same essential character, but they cost a lot less.

Please feel free to skip over this next paragraph unless you are studying a degree in Wine.

Nebbiolo d’Alba must be 100% Nebbiolo grape, while Nebbiolo Langhe only has to be 85% Nebbiolo. Langhe Nebbiolo DOC was formed in 1995 to be a “second wine of Barolo” but instead it quickly became a catch-all group for other grape varieties such as Langhe Chardonnay. Whereas Nebbiolo d’Alba was formed in the mid-70s, initially to make wine in the Roero region, but can be used as a classification across Langhe and can even be declassified to… Langhe Nebbiolo. On top of that, some winemakers make Nebbiolo Langhe or Nebbiolo d’Alba as a wine in itself, others see it as a vehicle for declassified Barolo.

Let’s be clear: Nebbiolo Langhe or Nebbiolo d’Alba is a mini-Barolo or mini-Barbaresco. In other words, Nebbiolo is earlier-drinking and brilliant value.

Just as a villages-level Bourgogne is to Grand Cru Burgundy, Langhe Nebbiolo are not as serious as Barolo or Barbaresco yet, they share enough of their good qualities for the dramatically lower price (one-third to one-quarter less). They are food wines par excellence, which is hardly surprising when Piedmont is the home of wild mushroom risotto, white truffle oil and agnolotti pasta made with eggs and stuffed beef, pork, or rabbit, flavoured with sausage, parmesan cheese, eggs and herbs…

Nebbiolo Nobile event at Serralunga d’Alba Castle, Piedmont

The exploration of Langhe – very nobly – culminated in a tasting at the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba organised by David Berry Green of Berry Bros & Rudd. It could be the immaculate palate of David Berry Green, who was once Burgundy buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd (and eighth-generation Berry), but regardless, all of the 50 wines showed a Burgundian freshness, finesse and drinkability.

I took this unique opportunity to taste 50 great Nebbiolo in one place – a tasting beautifully ‘edited’ by David Berry Green – to ask myself specific questions:

  • Can I taste specific characteristics in the Nebbiolo from different regions?
  • What is the difference between Barolo and Nebbiolo Langhe?
  • What is the difference between 2008 and 2009?

Some wines were obviously made as an after-thought to their main bread-winning wine (Barolo or Barbaresco), while others showed a level of care and attention that put it in the winning group expressing the region. In this group, Nebbiolo from near Nieve in Barbaresco showed a refinedness distinct from the softer Nebbiolo from the magnesium-rich soil and shallow hills of Roero. The powdery chalk in Cannubi can be tasted in the tannins of the Nebbiolo d’Alba made from there, which wrap around the luscious fruit like thin gauze.

Whether producers treat Nebbiolo as a second wine of Barolo or to treat it as its own style, this is the issue facing producers in the Langhe today.

This was a unique opportunity to taste 50 Nebbiolo from the region with only 5 producers imported by Berry Bros & Rudd, the rest selected on merit and some without representation in the UK. David Berry Green’s almost revolutionary belief in the importance of communicating the nobility of the Nebbiolo variety clearly meant nearly all the wines showed finesse, elegance and drinkability.

Nebbiolo Langhe and Nebbiolo d’Alba producers tasted include:

Vietti, Bricco Maiolica, Cantina Mascarello Bartolo, Giacomo Conterno, Renato Ratti, Produttori del Barbaresco, Giacosa Bruno, Marchesi di Gresy, Bataisolo, Elio Altare, Viberti, Cornarea, Rinaldi, Cascina Fontana, Luciano Sandrone, Ferdinando Principiano and more.

Buy Nebbiolo available at Berry Bros & Rudd

The following notes of 50 wines showcased at Nebbiolo Nobile and an overview of the region and vintages are exclusive to Vinissima subscribers. If you would like to subscribe, or are a member, please press here:

Tasting Notes from Nebbiolo Nobile

Castello di Serralunga d’Alba

13 April, 2011

 

2009 Nebbiolo Langhe and Nebbiolo d’Alba


2009 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Renato Ratti, La Morra Pale ruby colour with elegant rich fruit and clean chalky finish.

 

2009 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Giacosa Fratelli, Neive From the Barbaresco region, this has similar delicate colour to Barbaresco with beautiful rose perfume, good structure to the fruit tannins and slightly spicy finish.

 

2009 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Giacosa Bruno, Neive Pretty perfume, soft mouthfilling fruit, simple.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Cerrino, Trezzo Tinella * Six kilometres from Barbaresco. Nice bright ruby colour with cherry and raspberry fruit held in check by tannins. Simple, but my notes happily read – “A Joy!”

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Bricco Maiolica, Diano d’Alba Slightly heavier in style with rose colour very dry chalky finish. Very well-made wine with upfront fruit, which would suit new people to Langhe Nebbiolo.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Chionetti, Dogliani * Characteristic purple Dogliani colour with stewed plums and soft tannins.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Rosehip and iodine restrained with very strong acidity and perhaps still young at this stage from this quality producer.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Marchesi di Gresy, Barbaresco * Mouthfilling soft fruit, chalky tannins and pale rose colour, beautiful wine with deceptively simple elegance.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Cigliuti, Neive * Incense perfume on nose with good firm structure on the palate, pale pink rose with long aftertaste (retrogusto).

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Cascina delle Rose, Tre Stelle * Aged in steel, south of Barbaresco on top of hill of Tre Stelle, velvety fruit, cherry, taste of very fine chalk tannins.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Bataisolo Modern label and modern wine with rich fruit and very dry finish but not uncomfortably dry, either.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Marcarini, La Morra From the darker soil of La Morra, distinct iodine with savoury Merlot character. Light- to Medium-bodied but good balance between richness of fruit and tannins.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Elio Altare, La Morra Darker ‘La Morra” colour, richer and denser with mulberry and cherry fruit and clean tannic finish.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Osvaldo Viberti, La Morra Very rich fruit, slightly tomato ‘capresi” taste with a mineral-clean finish.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Brezza, Barolo Peach and wild fruit, with very elegant chalky finish. Beautiful label. Ready to drink now.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Cantina Mascarello Bartolo, Barolo * Still feels very young, excellent structure with long stewed fruit and an attack of fruit tannins on the tongue.

(Tasted again 26/5/11) Outstanding structure, very refined with wave of rich fruit over the palate with good bone structure. A long aging Langhe Nebbiolo and has the movement of a good Barolo. Distinctive.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Rinaldi, Barolo Deep purple in colour with a savoury (Merlot) taste coming through with a wave of fruit and velvet.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Elio Grasso, Monforte d’Alba * Incredible savoury cherry and toffee characters. My notes read: begs to be drunk with local agnioletti (lamb ravioli in butter).

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Domenico Clerico, Monforte d’Alba Taste of dry, unripe plums, simple but ok.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Gemma, Serralunga d’Alba Rich but elegant, baked fruit with vanilla sugar – darker glints, from the heat of the vintage in Serralunga d’Alba?

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Ettore Germano, Serralunga d’Alba Slightly paler than other wines from Serralunga d’Alba, with roundness and softness on palate and perfume.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Schiavenza, Serralunga d’Alba Overwhelmed by sweet fruit with not much structure but with good clean finish.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Guido Porro, Serralunga d’Alba Jammy fruit on the palate, not enough tannin to balance.

 

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Pira Luigi, Serrralunga d’Alba Stewed fruit, darker and fruitier with not enough structure expected from this area in a good vintage.

 

2008 Nebbiolo Langhe and Nebbiolo d’Alba

 

2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Cornarea, Canale * “Another joy”. Very soft, velvety mouthfeel with tobacco and cherry with great depth of fruit. Tannins there, but only tell-tale sign is as fine structure. (26/5/11) Plush mouthfeel with tannins making a last minute appearance after the flood of cherry fruit. Teeth drying finish.

 

2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Marco Porello, Canale A wave of soft fruit which doesn’t lead anywhere.

 

2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Matteo Correggia, Canale * Glossy colour with a lovely roundness on palate and “no attack” of tannins. High-definition perfumes of redcurrant, blueberry and good mineral core.

 

2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Bricco Maiolica, Diano d’Alba * Heavier, leather tobacco and earthy with not much primary cherry fruit character. Very distinctive, but drinkability? My notes read, “Interesting for a dinner party.”

 

2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Edoardo Sobrino, Diano d’Alba Weightier wine on the palate but with a disparate dry finish and edgy acidity.

 

2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Beppi Colla, Alba * Dark purple glints in the glass with voluptuous fruit and salty, black cherry jam. Was pointed out that this wine was, “Not aged in barrique”. Beautiful and distinct personality.

 

2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Ceretto, Alba * Elegant wine with taste of violets and cherry. Still very young but it has good structure to develop well.

 

2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Brezza, Barolo A heady combination of licorice and violets but quite rich and advanced. From between Barolo and Barbaresco. Good drinkability now.

 

2008 Langhe Nebbiolo, Negro Lorenzo, Monteu Roero Ready to drink now or next year with dark fruits, red flowers and lead pencil characters with fine tannins.

 

2008 Langhe Nebbiolo, Cascina Luisin, Barbaresco * Elegance epitomised. Harmonious characters of sour cherry with red fruit of forest and bright, mouth-watering acidity.

 

2008 Langhe Nebbiolo, Ca du Rabaja, Barbaresco Previously sold grapes to Proddutori del Barbaresco in Rabaja, one of the great areas. Perfectly balanced weight and cherry/violet fruit with clean tannins. Ready to drink.

 

2008 Langhe Nebbiolo, Piero Busso, Neive * Medium bodied with very fine tannins and a lovely clean line of purity of fruit and expression from perfume to palate.

 

2008 Langhe Nebbiolo, Gigi Bianco, Barbaresco * Only 2000 bottles made from this small producer, a perfect meshing of fruit and tannins. Beautiful clarity.

 

2008 Langhe Nebbiolo, Renato Fenocchio. Barbaresco Merlot very apparent in this wine, bordering on too funky – overshadows the Nebbiolo too much!

 

2008 Langhe Nebbiolo, Cascina Fontana, Perno * Raspberries and rose petals with a brooding richness and balanced by fine tannins. Perfect with fresh tomato and mozarella salad.

 

2008 Langhe Nebbiolo, Giacomo Conterno, Serralunga d’Alba Declassified Barolo, released after 2 years. Very fine tannins and a slightly cinnamon quality to the berry fruit. Slightly weighter style.

 

2007 Nebbiolo Langhe and Nebbiolo d’Alba

 

2007 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Brovia, Castiglione Falletto * Wild cherries and tar, this is a seriously good and pure Nebbiolo with depth of flavour that tastes like a baby Barolo.

 

2007 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Luciano Sandrone, Barolo Red ruby and clear colour. Dense and rich style with tobacco, blackberry and violets. Ready to drink now.

 

2007 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Eugenio Bocchino, La Morra Slightly cinnamon character with mouthfilling fresh blackberries and licorice with a long, notable finish.

2007 Langhe Nebbiolo, Vietti, Castiglione Falletto Ruby with brick highlights. Red fruits and violets with a velvety medium-bodied palate leading to a dry finish. As a fan of Vietti, not as impressed as I wanted to be.

2007 Langhe Nebbiolo, Massolino, Serralunga d’Alba Reminiscent of Barolo in style but with elegance rather than complexity it has a quiet perfume and violet, rose and raspberries. Easy to understand.

 

GENERAL NOTES

About the Langhe

Nebbiolo is very sensitive to varying micro-climatic conditions. This is why you may find Dolcetto taking up space on the lower slopes of top Barolo vineyards.

The Langhe is comparatively small at only 2000 square kilometres enclosed by the plains of Turin and Cuneo. The soil composition is influenced from when the Adriatic sea once covered the area and is a unique combination of iron, potassium, phospherous, copper, manganese and magnesium.

There are 11 townships in Barolo but there are five that are outstanding for Nebbiolo: La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba, Monteforte d’Alba.

The quality areas can be split up further between East and West.

To the West are the townships of La Morra, Barolo and Novello which are calcerous marl, in some parts so chalky to be almost as fine as baby powder. They are more compact, fresher and more fertile regions with wine that are softer, fruitier and rounder. La Morra has a distinct licorice character from the abundance of manganese and magnesium in soil.

To the East are Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba and Monforte d’Alba. The soils here are sandstone and quartziferous sand. Less fertile, the wines are more intense and structured with greater tannins with the ability to age longer.

Across the river from Alba is the Roero. Nebbiolo is indigenous to this area. The shallower hills and sandier soils lend themselves to a softer style. The wines become lighter and less complex as the soil becomes sandier the further north from Canale. The Manganese in the soil creates its own complexity, especially to the white wines from here.

What is the difference between Barolo, Barbaresco and Nebbiolo d’Alba?

Technically, Barolo has a minimum of 3 years aging, with 5 years for Riserva. Barbaresco has a minimum of 2 years; with 4 years for Riserva. Nebbiolo d’Alba requires one year of aging.

About the Vintages

The hot vintage of 2009 was a good vintage across Europe. Generally, the Nebbiolo are ripe, high in alcohol but balanced. The 2009 Barolo tasted in barrel were superb and already had the same “completeness” at this early stage as when I tasted the 2009 Bordeaux and 2009 Burgundy at En Primeur.

For Nebbiolo d’Alba and Langhe Nebbiolo, the hot conditions seemed to favour some parts of the region over others. The wines from La Morra had the best balance between rich fruit and tannin, while Serralunga d’Alba seemed a little too rich with not enough tannin at this early stage. As Jancis Robinson recently said, “Wine tasting is not a spectator sport,” and even though technically the hot vintage conditions should be good for Serralunga d’Alba, some wines verged on over-opulent, which is fine if they are drunk in next couple of years.

The 2008 vintage benefitted from a long summer. The fruit is not as rich as 2009. The Nebbiolo Langhe and Nebbiolo d’Alba are ready to drink now.

The few 2007 Nebbiolo tasted had developed many characteristics shared with simple, yet elegant, Barolo. Nebbiolo d’Alba has a peak drinking window of 3-4 years.

About the Event

David Berry Green (Berry Bros & Rudd) moved to Italy in 2009 and lives in Serralunga d’Alba. Since moving there he has had a passionate desire to promote Nebbiolo Langhe and Nebbiolo d’Alba as a second wine of Barolo and Barbaresco. He put together the tasting in the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba of 52 producers to “demonstrate the charm of the Nebbiolo grape, more or less in ‘purezza’, but that also speak clearly of their unique provenance and terroir.”

Although organised by David Berry Green, only a few of the wines were Berry Bros & Rudd wines. The purpose of the event was to showcase the quality and style of Nebbiolo. It is also David Berry Green’s style: he has an almost missionary zeal about the importance of Nebbiolo to gastronomy.

After the tasting, David Berry Green hosted a forum between producers and English press to discuss the perception of Nebbiolo d’Alba and Langhe: was it a second-wine of Barolo? At £15 per bottle average, and in such small quantities, these will never be bulk or cheap wines. The drinkability and approachability of these truly gastronomic wines are an excellent introduction to the rarer and more complex Barolo and Barbaresco.

 

ROLL CALL OF OUTSTANDING NEBBIOLO:

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Cerrino, Trezzo Tinella

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Chionetti, Dogliani

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Marchesi di Gresy, Barbaresco

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Cigliuti, Neive

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Cascina delle Rose, Tre Stelle

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Cantina Mascarello Bartolo, Barolo

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo, Elio Grasso, Monforte d’Alba

2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Cornarea, Canale

2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Matteo Correggia, Canale

2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Bricco Maiolica, Diano d’Alba

2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Beppi Colla, Alba

2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Ceretto, Alba

2008 Langhe Nebbiolo, Cascina Luisin, Barbaresco

2008 Langhe Nebbiolo, Piero Busso, Neive

2008 Langhe Nebbiolo, Gigi Bianco, Barbaresco

2008 Langhe Nebbiolo, Cascina Fontana, Perno

2007 Nebbiolo d’Alba, Brovia, Castiglione Falletto


ALL OF THE NOTES HEREIN, UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED, ARE COPYRIGHTED BY JUEL MAHONEY. NO PART OF THIS SITE, OR ANY OF THE CONTENT CONTAINED HEREIN, MAY BE USED OR REPRODUCED IN ANY MANNER WHATSOEVER WITHOUT EXPRESS PERMISSION OF THE COPYRIGHT HOLDER.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



9 Comments

  1. Sonia Ghiggioli says

    Please send me more information regarding Langhe as well as your overview of the 50 wines shown at Nebbiolo Nobile. I am a Queensland, Australia winemaker with a passion for Italian wines! I can’t get enough of reading, tasting, talking wine! lol Ciao Sonia :)

    • Juel Mahoney says

      Grazie mille Sonia,
      How interesting to be a winemaker in Queensland! Fantastic.
      The best thing to do is send me an email – vinissima [@] juelmahoney.com
      Look forward to hearing from you –
      Ciao!
      Juel

  2. Funny I also had the same understanding of Nebbiolo, and from some pretty reputable (I thought) Italian wine folks. Great piece as usual, however. I would like to get access to your report if you don’t mind.

  3. Hi Juel,

    If you want to be confused by Italian Classification laws, then look no further than Roero and Nebbiolo d’Alba. Until (and including) 2004, Roero D.O.C. was a red wine made with a minimum of 95% Nebbiolo, with up to 5% Arneis allowed (but not obligatory) in the blend. The current D.O.C. regs for Nebbiolo d’Alba are that it is a 100% Nebbiolo (theoretically). Since the 2005 vintage, Roero has been elevated to D.O.C.G. and is now a Nebbiolo-only wine. However, this wine, coming as it does not only from the same zone, but the same vineyards as Roero D.O.C.G. could be classified as either a D.O.C. or D.O.C.G. even if it is exactly the same wine in the tank/barrel. You just have to decide before you make it which you want to classify it as – Sandrone, for example, effectively makes a Roero Riserva, but it is always labelled as a Nebbiolo d’Alba. I guess as they have a market for this established wine, it makes no sense for them to adopt the theoretically higher classification of D.O.C.G. Not only this, but when I worked for a Roero producer, in addition to the three Cru Roero wines, they made, from vineyards in the Roero/Nebbiolo d’Alba zone, a wine which they are allowed to label as Langhe Nebbiolo, even though the grapes were not even so much as driven through the Langhe, never mind grown there…

    I still wrack my brain as to the need for both D.O.C. and D.O.C.G. classifications and I work for a producer. What chance have the poor customers got?

    Still, it is a great region and the wines labelled Nebbiolo (with the odd notable exception) are not expensive and capable of terrific value and a perfect way to get into Nebbiolo-based wines. And we don’t even make a straight Nebbiolo d’Alba or Langhe Nebbiolo (which of course does not have to be straight Nebbiolo at all).

    And then there is Gattinara, Boca, Lessona…

    Valtellina.

    • Juel Mahoney says

      Thanks for this outline of the Italian classification laws in the region. It’s a good question you asked, “what chance have the poor customers got?”

      That is why I put it in the post but not focus on it too much as I know from experience that “eyes glazing over” look. It’s important for quality up to a point but there is so much more besides in these laws. It is taking attention away from what is in the bottle, which is pretty good without the bitter aftertaste of bureaucracy.

      Thanks for taking the time to comment.
      Juel

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