And two wines, Zibibbo and Lambrusco: if you knew nothing else, and in a rush, you may dismiss them as sweet and too-often cloying. These two wines require you not to be too quick to judge.
The Lambrusco Rose Ferrando 2011 (Emilia IGP) by Roberto Maestri at Quarticello is lighter bodied than some stickier Lambrusco and finished with a crisp, click-your-palate type of dry, raspberry finish. Nice and bright and delicious with Parmasen cheese. The Zibibbo is from Marsala in Sicily and by winemaker Nino Barraco. It had a rich nose that almost threatened to become sweet in texture. I could almost feel it change its mind, flushed with a refreshing seaspray character, dry on the palate and full of texture. Even greater with the steelhead trout, fennel, caper berries and clams from the barbecue.
There were also other exciting wines on the night including the happy discovery of the Litrozzo from Le Coste di Gradoli in Lazio. It was one of those long, summer evenings in London where I met some great people and interesting wines and just a general good feeling around the table.
Tutto Wines Summer Dinner at Burnt Enz, London Fields 25 July 2012. Chef Dave Pynt.