There should be a word for that balloon-like fruit in natural wine. Plush is not quite the word. Nor is it as luxurious as velvet. I was thinking of a car safety airbag balloon – soft, in your face and I am sure many people who love big fruit in their wines will think it is heaven for a moment. I have tasted this texture many times in natural wines and I even detected it in the last vintage of the Rolls Royce of natural wine, Pontet Canet. Combined with the lack of astringent tannins, or wood, it makes the fruit turn to pillow.
“But don’t car safety balloons come out in car crashes?” someone will inevitably say when finding this to be a natural wine. Poor natural wines, always guilty until proven innocent! That would be unfair to this Cinsault from zelig-caravent, jardins des simples 2011 from Pic St Loup in the Languedoc. It has a rich, forward and smooth strawberry and raspberry character as if strawberries and raspberries have been left in the fridge overnight in their juices. It is not as complex or deep as their Manouches, it is happy and playful, and I liked it with a simple lunch of sauteed mushrooms and thyme on toast.
Another unique wine from the Languedoc, from zelig-caravent and from Roberson’s wine club mixed dozen.
Image Hallonmolnet, Cy Twombly