100ml, Bordeaux, Fashion

How Bordeaux 2014 is like Kate Moss

Despite owning the world’s media focus for over 20 years, how much did we really know about Kate Moss at the height of her fame?

Yes, we saw photos of leaving parties in Primrose Hill, the hazy wedding photos and the terrible boyfriends. But unlike other celebrities, she never talked about her personal life even when her image was everywhere. No interviews, no salacious tell-alls after the scandals, and only until very recently, no celebrity television shows. All we had was her turning away from us in the Rimmel TV ad with a four-word parting shot in her Croydon accent, “Get the London Look!”

In the last couple of years, Kate Moss has lifted the “Kate Moss media embargo” on herself. And it’s…. (and I’m talking as a big fan over the years) it’s just not the same. No more guessing – we now know what she thinks or doesn’t think. That’s not what we want from our supermodels! We want the old cool Kate even if that is an impossible expectation for any human being to live up to for so many years. But we don’t want her to be any old human being. Just as people who buy expensive Bordeaux don’t want any old wine.

Until recently, the spin from Bordeaux has been relatively quiet for this time of year. That’s good, I thought to myself, tone it down a bit. Keep the mystery. Let people fall in love with it again instead of making them feel they are kissing a fool. Then in today’s Drinks Business Magazine:

“Bordeaux 2014 declared ‘Miracle Vintage'”.

And what is the “miracle”, according to Nicholas Glumineau of Roederer’s Bordeaux Estates? “The unusually fine weather from late August until mid-November.” Allegedly, the 2014 vintage is close in style to the 2010 vintage.

Begging the question, will it also have the high prices of the 2010 vintage?

The hyperbole from Bordeaux before an en primeur campaign just doesn’t help anyone. A mature fine wine market like in the UK has seen this all before. The vintage of the century, anyone?

Without the hyperbole, Bordeaux 2014 campaign could have cooled down to “Kate Moss” levels. And I don’t mean lean and glamourous. Just give us a little more space for seduction. As Kate would say, “Get the London look!”

Then again, after the recent open letter from the UK wine merchants, maybe Bordeaux Chateaux are not looking at London at all.

 Update: For a more balanced view of the Bordeaux 2014 vintage one month after this blog post – see Bordeaux 2014: Chateau hail strong vintage but market pressure buildsGlumineau in Decanter Magazine adds “I’m not saying that 2014 is another vintage of the Century”.