What’s the key to Burgundy 2014 en primeur? White wines, white wines all the way baby. How can you tell before they have been bottled? Nearly ten years experience of tasting wines at this stage, you can get an idea of the vintage. It’s all about the vibes. What does that even mean, VIBES??!! That will get you in a lot of trouble on twitter. Who cares. I’m in it for the Burgundy. The vibes…. As Michael Jackson would say about the white wine vintage, “I’m in ec-sta-sy!” You can tell from the hair standing up on the back of your neck. The zing. Ecstasy. Joy. It’s like this: Which producers did you see at Burgundy En Primeur week? I went to Berry Bros & Rudd and Corney & Barrow 2014 en primeur tasting. Also, the Grand Cru Chablis 2014 tasting. What do you think the trade will make of it this year? No one in the trade loves “a good white wine vintage in Burgundy”. There’s not the same money in it as a good red …
My Burgundy Diary from last week’s trip can be found here on Bibendum Times. “Les Trois Dames from Bibendum” spent the week tasting the latest 2010 vintage (and more) from producers: Robert Denogent, Morey-Coffinet, Bouley, Domaine Roux, Grivot, Marc Colin, Tollot-Beaut, Girardin, Barthod, Roche de Bellene, Fourrier, Confuron-Contetidot, Pierre Morey, Fontaine Gagnard, Alain Chavy, Latour Giraud, Mortet, Domaine Gouges, Drouhin Laroze, Hudelot Noellat, Dupont Tisserandot and Robert Chevillon. Many vinous seductions, filigreed site places and sensual poetry in the glass. I hope you enjoy. Link: “Burgundy 2010”
I forget the name of the place; I forget the name of the girl; but the wine was Chambertin” – Hillaire Belloc Tasting Grand Cru Chambertin next to other wines is like seeing a film featuring Anouk Aimée after an all-day marathon of Friends. It has such a different affect on the senses it makes you wonder whether all winemakers are using the same key ingredients of grapes, soil, sky and cellar. The last time I tasted 2008 and 2009 Grand Cru Domaine Rossignol-Trapet they were in an embryonic En Primeur state in London; now the wines had formed a clear personality. Rossignol-Trapet’s Gevrey-Chambertin villages red was a go-to wine for me for a couple of years, so it was a thrill to meet Nicholas at the Domaine.
The RN74 road in Burgundy is like driving down a wine list. Great names, manicured vines; it is, to state the obvious, a place where vineyards have been have been held in loving trust for millennia. Generations of families and growers have worked the land; a place where growers are so well-known by winemakers business is done on a handshake (‘topler’). But it must be the perverse streak in me, despite having the privilege to taste many Grand Crus from great familes during my time there, one of my favourite wines was a red Saint-Romain from the relatively new winemaker, Christophe Buisson.
A few seconds of the Gothic atmosphere outside Domaine de la Romanée-Conti vineyards and Vosne-Romanée on my recent visit to the Côte de Nuits, Burgundy.