cruel summer: Burgundy 08

“No decent Chablis this year? Time to rob some banks…”

Another cruel summer in Burgundy. Now it’s gone.

If you see a lonely White Burgundy on the shelf from the 2005 vintage – snap it up.

The next best are 2006s.

They’re not good, but they’re not bad. Steer clear from the fat 2003s. If you remember, that’s the heatwave year when not only the vines, but people, died.

Chablis needs its mineral, crystalline architecture of acid to get to its great heights. And that only happens when the fruit is not overripe and swollen by heat-loving sugar.

For those with moxie, pick these vineyards for 2006 Chablis – in a few years, once everyone realises the poor 2007 and 2008 vintages, you may need to rob banks to buy them:

Grand Cru

Les Vaudesirs
Les Grenouilles
Les Clos

Premier Cru

Les Montmains
La Montee-de-Tonnerre
Les Vaillons