France, natural wine, Wine Reviews

Flavour Chess – Jean Pierre Robinot, 2011 Concerto

Chess art

2011 Concerto Jean Pierre Robinot

Masquerading as simply a light red from the Loire, on closer taste this is an entirely new wine, keeping the red wine tannins but swapping the fruit part with white characters: grapefruit pith, pomegranate seeds and campari orange. After an hour, the Pinot d’Aunis grape interrupts like a waiter with an oversized pepper grinder stopping the conversation. After this interruption it settles down again into a light-bodied red wine, and losing the funk, making the whole experience as unsettling to the senses as being lost in some South-East Asian market before the humidity rises and the fruits are unpacked in the cool early dawn.

Robert Parker would call his Anti-Pleasure Police, which is not such a bad thing, but I had myself reaching for my bookshelf. Jean Pierre Robinot could be said to be one of the founders of natural wine (along with Marcel Lapierre) so if you like wines made for modern air-heads this is not for you. However, if you are in to weird Loire grapes and intelligent winemaking this keeps you guessing the next move like a game of wine flavour chess.

Ps Pinot d’Aunis* is related to Chenin Blanc not Pinot Noir as expected

* Read comments below, these grape varieties really keep you on your toes – must be why I love them so.

This is from a great Wine Club mixed case from Robersons


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