Dolcetto is a fantastic lunch wine, and a good one should be able to step in when the (Barolo) boss is away and do a decent job. This Dolcetto d’Alba Vignevillej from Brovia does this and more – it has all the easy satisfaction of a lunch wine and a pretty violet colour, but can cut through a beef shin ragu, particularly the one at Trullo restaurant in Islington that has been cooked so long the meat has an incredible creamy texture.
Only 10,000 bottles are produced per year, most are sent to the US. So I was happy to see this on a bright and wintry Saturday at Trullo, which has an Italian wine list that has to be one of my favourite in London today (amongst some tough competition).
Predominantly Northern Italian in focus, as is the food at Trullo, with a few choice picks from the South. This has been the year of travelling to Italy for me – four times to Sicily (including Pantelleria), to the North-East and Campania. As the year is drawing to a close, this wine list is like re-visiting old friends.