Whenever I hear the name Ayala, my brain plays with the Y and lands on Azzedine Alaïa. He was the designer behind the sculpted black dresses that 1990s supermodels made famous. The leap isn’t as odd as it sounds, because the Champagne shares something of that style. It’s elegant and sensual, but cut with real precision.
Ayala is often mentioned alongside Bollinger, and it’s easy to assume it lives in the bigger house’s shadow. When Bollinger bought Ayala in 2005, though, it invested where it was needed and then wisely left it alone. Ayala has remained a Grand Marque in its own right. It was also one of the first houses to champion a drier style of Champagne, back in the 1860s. The two houses are neighbours in Aÿ, a village famous for Pinot Noir, but the resemblance ends there.
To stretch the fashion metaphor, Bollinger is to Ayala what Armani is to Alaïa. Ayala is the less mainstream choice, the one insiders reach for. I love Bollinger, but sometimes only the slightly drier, lighter Ayala Brut Majeur NV will do.
Ayala Brut Majeur NV with lemon and fennel panko-crumbed sea bass and an oyster and sorrel sauce
Ayala Brut Majeur with food
One of the best pairings I’ve had with Ayala Brut Majeur was sea bass in a panko crumb, made with dehydrated lemon and fennel seeds ground to a powder. The coating was light, crunchy and pleasingly spicy, enough to give the Colonel a run for his money. The generous share of Pinot Noir in the blend handled those big flavours with ease.
Rich flavours are the moment to reach for this style of Champagne. Remember the sauce as well as the fish, too. With the salty buzz of an oyster and sorrel sauce, the Ayala strutted through the dish like a supermodel on the runway.
Final thoughts
Unless your fish is cooked very simply, as it is at this seafood restaurant in Sydney, think about the batter and sauce when choosing a Champagne. If it’s traditional fish and chips you’re after, I’ll be honest: the best match is a strong cup of Yorkshire tea. For bolder flavours, though, a Champagne with plenty of Pinot Noir is the one to choose.
It also pays to taste beyond the big names. Champagne pricing can be murky, with phantom discounts and powerful brands, and the label doesn’t always tell you much about value. Houses like Ayala are a good reminder that some of the best quality for the price sits just outside the spotlight.
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