If you have friends who say Italian wine is confusing, then take them to this wine bar in Trastevere in Rome. The wines on the blackboard called me in from the street with a listing as colourful and clear as notes on a children’s toy xylophone. In principle, the best wine bars have a sense of non-fussiness. That is why Ferrara is an incredible feat: Italy is a country where nearly everybody is a fussy oenophile. Oh yes, everyone is an expert; but perhaps Italians truly need to be with 1000s of grape varieties and so many excellent regions to choose from. Regardless, this tiny wine bar was not a bad compromise between wines that are accessible and interesting.