Savennières: what’s cool in wine right now

Sit up straight. Now pay attention. I’m not going to say this twice.Savennières commands. The Chenin Blanc from the region in the Loire, doesn’t care about being popular or relaxing in front of the television at the end of the day. Turn the television off, says this wine, this is going to be a serious conversation about ideas.

If you want to know it: taste, drink, read a book.

Of course, this makes it instantly unpopular. Like avant-garde Japanese fashion, the steely mineral character is almost angular, yet try wearing it at a supermarket and you may get some blank stares. Not everyone is going to like it, or get it, but who cares.

The best are dissonant yet interesting. The worse are flabby and boring. Even more annoyingly, with Savennières, the quality is highly dependent on the vintage.

Best producers I have been fortunate to taste are Baumard (Clos du Papillon, Monopole) and Clos de la Coulee de Serrant from Chateau Roche aux Moins by biodynamic wine star, Nicolas Joly.

It’s not popular. Not yet.

Link: A great fish recipe to show off a great white wine

Image: a very young Yves Saint Laurent