Burgundy, Wine Reviews

Valentine’s Day: wine for the cynical and jaded

Saying pink champagne is romantic is as delusional as saying Paris is feminine when one look at a map shows the city is a continuous paean to military conquests. The best Rose Champagne is not hearts and fluffy toys, it usually has a strong Pinot Noir constitution that can withstand many different food assaults. So if you must buy into the most commercial of days etc etc… What do you do?

You, yes you. They say, scratch a cynic and you’ll find an idealist. The most romantic wine I have had recently is Sylvain Cathiard’s 2007 Bourgogne. In accordance with my rule on wine from Burgundy – it is better to buy the entry level wine of the best producer than the top vineyard from someone I don’t know or trust – even if I had the opportunity to have the best of Cathiard’s wines on Valentine’s Day I think I would still prefer to have the Bourgogne. Like Carrie in the Sex and the City episode, The Ick Factor (where she faints in front of The Russian from the grand romantic gesture), perhaps I’d plead, “It’s too much. You gotta take it down a nudge”.

Considering the vintage, this Pinot Noir has surprising amount of sinewy, elegant fruit twisting through it like black wrought iron on a Parisian balustrade. It is cherry but not cheery and seduces without making a silly fuss. You just KNOW. It may even convert the most jaded or cynical to its seductions. But then again, for the more militant, save it for another day and better to go for a Quarter Pounder and French Fries….

Image: Juergen Teller, ‘William Eggleston, Memphis’ best’, 2008



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